Independent travel in Israel

After my piece on independent travel in Palestine, published last month in Wanderlust (UK), here is my follow-up article on Israel. You can click on each page to see a close-up version. I meant the two articles to be read in tandem, and I tried as best I could to match experiences in both places – rural walks, “dangerous” towns, microbreweries… Let me know if I succeeded or (more important) not – and why!

UPDATE: full text reproduced here